Taro . . the Wedau Way!

By Alfred Kaniniba in the Weekend Courier

LEO Gegenaua is in his mid 50s and has four sons. Perched on a ridge about a hundred metres up from Gegenaua’s house in Wedau village is Dan Abel Piabudi and his family. They are getting ready to go to the river to fish.

Murphy Diweula lives at his temporary home at Diriuna, about half a days brisk walk from Wedau around a massive coral outcrop which hugs desperately to the land as it dives acutely into pristine deep blue waters this beautiful and panoramic area is known as Lamogara.

These are only three men and their families who are among nearly another 100 others who are the keepers and practitioners of the Wedau irrigation and irrigation with which they grow the taro.

Unlike other parts of Papua New Guinea and the Pacific where different cultures have a different ways of planting taro, Wedau’s culture of planting taro is one of rigorous trial and fasting. The taro in Wedaun culture is likened to a spirit.

That is why all action, from the cutting and clearing of the tract of land to the ploughing, tilling and refining of the soil using the “eepa” digging sticks is treated with great reverence and respect. The land where all the taro gardens are centred is know as “Wapupouna” or “the main garden”.

In this area which spans more than 50 square kilometres it is a place where no noise is made. No singing or shouting of action which could disturb the peace.

Only during the ploughing can there be noise. But apart from that activity each person who has a taro plot respects the other and respect the spirit of Wapupouna. Before a man can go to Wapupouna, he must fast.

They are not allowed to sleep with their wife or young woman if it is a young man. They cannot go fishing in the sea. They cannot wash with soap or put on any substance which adds fragrance to the body. They cannot eat fish from the sea or any kind of fresh meat. The man must fast for up to three days or more before they can go to the main garden.

The fasting is of great importance as it is believed that if a gardener does not follow this unwritten rule, they are bound to spoil all the hard work already spent in preparing the soil for the planting to take place in the Wedau dialect it is known as “ ina vao”.

It is believed that their taro plot is doomed to encounter a bad harvest. Wedau Ward Councillor Japhet Neill Dogabu is one custodian who is very strict about following these fasting rituals. “It is a matter of being honest with ones self to the job at hand.

From experience handed down, we must adhere to these norms so that the taro, which is a spiritual being will rest at ease to follow its path to producing well.” The taro seeds are prepared a day or two before the planting “vao” is to take place. If the plot is a new one the gardener wakes early in the morning about 5pm and heads to Wapupouna.

At the garden he gets his “eepa tupo” or the short and heavy digging stick made specifically to dig holes in the already prepared soil bed. The holes are created first and the gardner can continue to dig holes according to the estimated number of taro tubers he has.

The holes to plant the taro tubers in are created in lines. The action to create the holes are done in a rhythmic way so that each hole resembles the last one. Once the estimated number of holes are completed it creates a very interesting sight.

From any where you stand to look, all the rows are in symmetry in parallel, in gradient. It is truly a work of art. All the holes are on the bed of soil. Once the holes are completed, the gardner then returns to the river to have a bath and relax before he returns to plant the taro seeds.

The symmetry is what is one of the underlying secrets of the “Vao” or taro planting. This is where the essence of the taro planting and the irrigation meet. The planting of the taro is done on their knees until it is completed.

That done the water from the irrigation trench is opened to seep through into the newly planted plot. Why the symmetry is important is that as soon as the water fills into the first top hole at the head of the newly planted taro bed, the water is then systematically distributed to all the taro holes in equal proportion until it reaches the end.

In doing so, each taro plant is given equal amount of care by the gardener to make sure the best yield will be returned from his plot. A plot of taro usually takes up to six months to mature.

The taro vegetable and the taro leaf are the pride of Wedau and all villages in the East Weraura LLG of Rabaraba District that run the Irrigation system.

Gardening and planting of the taro is truly an amazing feat. It is a whole lot of hard work, from building the irrigation to ploughing, tilling, and fasting to planting the taro, but the spiritual reverence and application to this whole system truly makes it worth the lifestyle.

For Leo, Abel and Murphy, they are now the leaders in this priceless culture of Wedau irrigation and taro planting and they are already handing it over to the next generation to carry on.

In the next Weekend Courier where the women come, names of taro, yam and asparagus specie and feasts. The final part will be about the future and what this Wedaun ancient civilisation is headed for with a proposed mine being talked about at the head Waters of the Wamira River. Does this civilisation stand a chance?